A recent article featured in Popular Mechanics discusses various lawn diseases and methods of both treatment and prevention.
The article stresses that harmful grass pathogens are constantly present in every lawn and only awaiting the opportunity to become active. Combine a grass variety susceptible to a pathogen with the wrong weather conditions, and presto! Your lawn may soon blossom with harmful microorganisms.
The authors also point out that there are good fungi and bad fungi, how to spot each and how to foster the right kind. When a bad fungi becomes active, it may be spread by weather, grass clippings and even your lawn mower.
The best preventive measures against lawn diseases are:
1. Choosing the proper grass cultivar for your soil and weather conditions.
2. Maintaining a lawn which is well-aerated, has good drainage, and gets plenty of circulated air.
3. Diligent care in your methods of watering, fertilizing, and mowing.
The use of organic composts can help in the prevention of lawn diseases and the authors explain the best methods.
Spring, Summer, and Fall-specific lawn diseases are covered in great detail and well worth the read, as well as conditions such as Fairy Rings, Stripe Smut, Necrotic Ring Spots, and Dollar Spot.
You may read the entire article at Popular Mechanics, and this page features tips on diagnoses with accompanying photographs.
We will continually add to this list of Popular Reel Mower Questions:
What is the difference between old and new cutting technologies?
All reel mowers have curved type cylinder blades that create a cutting action against a fixed plate. The blades make a spiral around the reel axis, and as they spin, the spiral of blades forces grass past the stationary plate.
Contact (friction) Mowers
This is the “older” more conventional form of cutting method. The cylinder blades are in direct contact with the bed knife and scrape across each other very similar to scissors shearing together. There is generally more friction (hence the name) which causes these mowers to be slightly more difficult to push. The friction also causes noise which can vary depending on each model – some are more quiet than others. Friction mowers generally need to be sharpened every 2 to 3 seasons. If you have a yard full of weeds then a friction mower is the best choice.
Contact-Free (frictionless) Mowers
The newer more modern reel mowers use a contact-free or frictionless cutting system. The term contact-free is used to describe a small gap (usually around 0.05mm) between the reel mower blades and the bed knife. The gap is roughly the width of a human hair and small enough to cut grass, yet big enough to eliminate all friction and noise caused by friction. Contact-free reel mowers are easier to push then the older style making them more fun to use and less tiring. Contact-free mowers cut best when used on healthy turf with minimal weeds. These mowers also cut best when used at lower cutting heights. There are some models available today that claim to be used on 2-3″ cutting range, however, much of the grass is left behind. The best cutting height range is 1-1.75″. Contact-free reel mowers usually do not need to be sharpened for at least 5-10 years depending on use.
When Do The Reel Blades Need Sharpening?
Most mowers stay sharp between 2-4 years depending on use. This can vary from lawn to lawn and manufacturer to manufacturer. You can tell when your reel mower needs to be sharpened when much of the grass passes by the reel and is left uncut.
Contact-free mowers do not require sharpening. Instead, it is a best management practice to adjust the gap distance between the reel and the bed knife. This is very easy can be accomplished in less then 3mins and performed as frequently as needed.
Contact mowers require sharpening on the average of every 2 years. You can purchase do-it-yourself sharpening kit and sharpen your own reel mower.
What Is The Best Cutting Height?
This is a very popular question and a topic with a lot of misinformation – especially if you surf around the internet… Reel mowers cut best when the cutting height is set lower then 2″. When set higher then 2inches, some of the grass tends to get “missed” and multiple passes can be required. For more information please visit our section dedicated to Height Of Cut (HOC).
Should I Buy/Use A Grass Collector Bag?
Our general recommendation is no, however, below are list of the pros and cons. For more information please read about Grasscycling here.
PROs To A Grass Bag
-Grass clippings are good for the compost pile
-Can prevent weeds from spreading if cutting the seed stalks
-Slightly “cleaner” look is achieved when removing more then 1/3 the grass height.
-Wet grass clippings can smother together and will not filter down as easily.
CONs To A Grass Bag
-Grass clippings hold valuable nutrients which can be returned to the soil.
-Grass clippings less then 1inch will filter down to the soil.
-Grass clippings DO NOT cause thatch!
-Unlike rotary mowers, grass clippings are not blown into a pile, they are gently scattered (mulched) behind the mower
I have Emerald Zoysia at my new house and I own have a 4 year John Deere 21″ push mower that does okay but I want to buy a new mower. What type of mower should I buy?
If quality of cut is your top priority, then a good reel mower is the only way to go – a rotary, homeowner grade push mower should be your last choice. Zoysiagrass mowed by a rotary lawn mower looks terrible and you tend to get round scalp marks every time you turn the mower…
Further to the basics of cutting height (you can read more here) and how it influences the quality of your lawn, let’s examine the equally important quality of cut (QOC).
In a separate blog entry I used the roses in the blender analogy to illustrate what happens to tender grass blades when cut using a rotary lawn mower. The key element at work in mowing grass with a rotary mower is SPEED – speed of the blade turning fast enough to tear or flail the tips off of the grass being mowed.
You may be surprised to learn that only the last ¼ to ½ inch of a rotary lawn mower blade ever does any actual cutting, but if you think about it the blade is moving so fast, that as you push the mower forward only that portion of the blade makes contact with the longer grass blade – everything farther down the blade just passes over the already mowed grass.
The sharpness of the blade is another misunderstood concept. Many people believe that a rotary blade should be extremely sharp, this is a misnomer:
Firstly, if you use a rotary you know that a razor sharp blade is impossible to maintain, just a few minutes of cutting will dull rotary blades significantly. The lifting force that many rotary mowers are designed with today also brings all kinds of debris into contact with the blade, dulling it significantly. That is why a rotary mower dealer or mechanic will not even recommend a blade that sharp, because it can’t be kept that way and is more susceptible to damage as you try to make it sharper and the leading edge becomes thinner.
Finally you would need to sharpen the rotary blade after every mowing, which is not only inconvenient; it can be dangerous if you are not careful and know what you are doing. If the blade is not perfectly balanced each time it can put tremendous strain on the mower as an unbalance blade spins irregularly on the drive shaft of the engine.
The bottom line is that the only way a rotary can mow grass is by shear speed and to smash the tips off the blades of grass. No matter what you do, you cannot overcome this mode of mowing action with a rotary lawn mower.
If you want the best looking, most healthy grass – stick to using a reel lawn mower. All the professionals use reel mowers……
In previous posts, I’ve primarily talked about the height of cut for warm season grass which is mostly Bermudagrass, and why shorter is usually better.
Let’s now look at cool season grasses:
Think for a minute about where you see the shortest mowed grass in the world…typically on athletic fields and golf courses – equally cool season as warm season grasses. It is also the most beautiful grass you will find. This in itself is enough to dispel the notion that grass has to be long to be high quality; in fact just the opposite is true as long as several general principals are applied.
Firstly, consider that golf greens are mowed shorter than 1/8th of an inch in today’s game and yet still have good quality roots systems and are incredibly dense. How is this possible? Sound cultural practices.
The grass isn’t allowed to grow up to two or three inches and then chopped to an 1/8th. It’s mowed everyday and just a small amount of leaf blade is removed. You can do the same thing in the realm of residential cutting, get great exercise, and have the best lawn on the block! I’m not suggesting that you mow every day, that wouldn’t be necessary even if you wanted to. But assume you mow your lawn at 1½ inches. You may need to mow it every 5-7 days, but it will not be difficult and your lawn will respond exceptionally well.
The reel mower cut has significant advantages over a rotary mower. Reel lawn mowers leave behind clean-cut grass, as if the grass had been cut with sharp scissors – this cylinder cutting method reduces disease, reduces clipping accumulation and other negative environmental factors we have discussed before. Another added benefit to the reel mower and a lower mowing height is the extra density you will see in your lawn. When each grass blade is able to stand straight up on its own and not shade the blades around it, more blades will develop generating a lusher stand of grass. The thicker the lawn, the harder it is for weeds to invade. The best defense against weeds is not a bag of weed killer but a strong stand of turfgrass to prevent their encroachment. A frequent cut with a reel mower will insure that clippings do not accumulate at a negative rate and keep the lawn looking good all the time. You can tailor a program to whatever you have time for and exactly how long you want your grass to be. If you can find a little extra time to mow frequently you will be amazed at the results. Trust me.
Please don’t be fooled, a higher cutting height is NOT better for the grass!!
The following reference chart is helpful for determining the proper height of cut for your reel mower. It is also important to remember the “1/3rd” rule so that you do not stress the grass.
Species
Normal Weather
High-Temperature
Stress Period
Colonial bentgrass
0.30 – 0.80
0.50 – 0.80
Creeping bentgrass
0.125 – 0.80
0.188 – 0.80
Fine fescue
0.50 – 2.00
1.50 – 3.00
Kentucky bluegrass
1.50 – 2.25
2.25 – 3.00
Perennial ryegrass
1.50- 2.00
2.00 – 3.00
Tall fescue
1.75 – 3.00
2.50 – 3.50
Bermudagrass
0.25 – 1.50
NA
Bahiagrass
1.50 – 3.00
NA
Buffalograss
1.00 to unmowed
NA
Carpetgrass
1.00 – 3.00
NA
Centipedegrass
1.00 – 3.00
NA
Seashore paspalum
0.45 – 2.00
NA
St. Augustinegrass
3.00 – 4.00
NA
Zoysiagrass
0.50 – 2.00
NA
Source:
Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998.
How do you determine more accurately what the true reel mower height of cut is? On most residential and commercial turfgrass surfaces this is not an exact science. Using three very simple steps it is possible to make close approximations with any push reel mower.
Step 1.
The height of cut (HOC) must be measured on a freshly mowed lawn. Take a few minutes and push your reel mower using the height setting of your choice, or the setting of which you intend to measure.
Step 2.
Take out a ruler or a tape measure and push the end down into the grass until it sits firmly on the soil or on the thatch layer of the lawn.
Step 3.
While making sure the grass is standing upright measure to the top of a freshly mowed blade. The resulting number will be the approximate height of cut that you are actually mowing at. It is sometimes a good idea to measure 5+ grass blades using the average length as the final HOC.
Suggested Mowing Heights
Species
Normal Weather
High-Temperature
Stress Periods
Colonial bentgrass
0.30 – 0.80
0.50 – 0.80
Creeping bentgrass
0.125 – 0.80
0.188 – 0.80
Fine fescue
0.50 – 2.00
1.50 – 3.00
Kentucky bluegrass
1.50 – 2.25
2.25 – 3.00
Perennial ryegrass
1.50- 2.00
2.00 – 3.00
Tall fescue
1.75 – 3.00
2.50 – 3.50
Bermudagrass
0.25 – 1.50
NA
Bahiagrass
1.50 – 3.00
NA
Buffalograss
1.00 to unmowed
NA
Carpetgrass
1.00 – 3.00
NA
Centipedegrass
1.00 – 3.00
NA
Seashore paspalum
0.45 – 2.00
NA
St. Augustinegrass
3.00 – 4.00
NA
Zoysiagrass
0.50 – 2.00
NA
Source:
Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998.
Reel lawn mowers used to be very very popular – remember? For many of you and especially those of you ages 12 to 40, you may know manual push reel mowers as, “that old mower my grandfather used have”. We recently discovered a fantastic and informative old magazine advertisement for The Genuine “PHILADELPHIA” Lawn Mowers. You can tell by reading the ad that reel lawn mowers once had a passionate following.
The advertisement reads:
Lawns or Links – Sun or Shade
That Grass thrives best which receives the best care and no factor plays a greater part in the development of fine lawns than does the Lawn Mower. Now, to the casual observer, all Lawn Mowers look pretty much alike. Paint and varnish, gilt lettering and fancy designs cover a multitude of Lawn Mower sins. That is why it pays to buy Mowers of known reputation. That is the reason why experienced buyers ask for The Genuine “PHILADELPHIA” Lawn Mowers.
They stand for fifty-five years of undivided efforts in one field. We originated, developed and improved, until to-day every “PHILADELPHIA” Mower is sold under the unqualified guarantee that they are of the highest standards in workmanship and materials.
Progressive Dealers the world over will show you any models. There are twenty-five styles all told, in Hand-Horse- and Motor-Mowers.
The Philadelphia Lawn Mower Company
31st and Chestnut Streets, Philadelphia, Pa., U.S.A.
Although grasses are better equipped than other species to deal with cutting, even grasses have difficulty tolerating mowing. Mowing removes plant tissue that would otherwise perform photosynthesis and provide energy for the grass. Bottom line: mowing is always a stress on your grass.
As a rule, not more than 33 to 40% of the aboveground tissue should be removed in a single mowing (Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998, page 148). In addition, grass should be cut at an even higher setting during periods of stress (high temperatures, frequent compression, etc.).
For more information on particular turf species and cutting recommendations, see Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management, by Nick Christians: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998, (chapter 8, in particular).
Your lawn will also respond to how frequently or infrequently it is mowed. Mowing too often places additional stress on the grass from water loss and soil compaction. Infrequent mowing, on the other hand, may result in scalping and a buildup of clippings on the surface that can contribute to disease and other problems (Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998, page 150). If you stick to the guide of removing not more than 33 to 40% of the above ground plant tissue (and less during periods of stress), you will find the proper balance in mowing frequency for your lawn.
Grass clippings will always be a part of lawn care. Because lawns grow at different rates depending on environmental conditions and management practices, it is important to tailor mowing, fertilizing, and watering to meet plant needs, yet avoid excessive growth. Grass clippings an inch or less in length filter down to the soil surface and decompose relatively quickly. Longer clippings have a tendency to remain above the lawn where they appear unsightly and can shade or smother grass beneath. Long clippings need to be removed to avoid both unsightliness and lawn damage.
Bagging clippings did not become commonplace until the 1950s when bagging attachments were designed for rotary motors. In nearly every instance, proper lawn care can greatly reduce or eliminate the need to collect clippings. In fact, clippings are a valuable source of nutrients. University of Minnesota soil test recommendations call for less nitrogen fertilizer if clippings are returned to the lawn. Also, the addition of organic matter in the form of clippings may help to improve the status of your soil if it is sandy or low in organic matter.
Contrary to popular belief, returning clippings to the lawn does not normally contribute to increased thatch formation. Thatch is a layer of undecomposed organic matter that builds up between the soil surface and the actively growing green vegetation. A thatch layer will develop if organic matter is produced faster than it is decomposed by microorganisms. The major factors contributing to thatch development are vigorous grass varieties, excessive nitrogen fertilization, infrequent mowing, and low soil oxygen levels. Small clippings are composed primarily of easily degradable compounds which break down rapidly and do not accumulate. Long clippings may contain wiry stem material that is slow to decompose.
Alternatives to Leaving Clippings
While leaving clippings on the lawn is recommended, certain instances make the practice inadvisable. The following are some exceptions to the rule:
If the lawn is heavily infested with certain leaf diseases, removing clippings may help reduce disease severity. If the lawn must be mowed when wet, clippings can mat together and smother the grass. If the grass has become too tall, clippings can mat together and smother the grass.
When clippings must be collected, using them as mulch in the garden or composting them are two good alternative disposal methods. Grass clippings can provide an effective mulch around garden plants. Mulching helps reduce weeds, conserve moisture, and modify soil temperatures. However, do not apply more than one or two inches of grass clippings as a mulch at one time. Wet grass clippings can mat down and prevent oxygen and moisture from getting down into the soil. When oxygen is limited, anaerobic decomposition of the clippings may take place, leading to the production of offensive odors. Do not use grassclippings as mulch if the lawn was recently treated with an herbicide for dandelions or other broadleaf types of weeds. If clippings are to be used as a mulch, then wait until its been mowed at least twice.
Composting involves mixing grass clippings and other plant materials with a small amount of soil containing microorganisms which decompose organic matter. Grass clippings are excellent additions to a compost pile because of their high nitrogen content. However, they should not be the only compost component. As with mulches, a thick layer of grass clippings in a compost pile will lead to bad odors from anaerobic decomposition. Mix them with dry materials such as leaves or straw. Clippings can be composted in the backyard or hauled to municipal composting sites.
Source:
“Managing Grass Clippings,” University of Minnesota, Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series: http://www.sustland.umn.edu/maint/mowing.htm[accessed on May 6, 2008].
Rob Anthony, a nationally recognized and respected Horticulturalist and Turfgrass Manager recently joined our team to assist us with content writing! Rob currently serves on the reader advisory board for Turfgrass Trends Magazine, Athletic Turf and Technology Magazine and contributes regularly for the latter as well as the highly respected international publication, Stadia Magazine. His professional experience includes Head Groundskeeper for the Green Bay Packers, and Athletic Turfgrass Development Manager with two nationally ranked Division I Universities.
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