Posts Tagged ‘lawn mowing’
We will continually add to this list of Popular Reel Mower Questions:
What is the difference between old and new cutting technologies?
All reel mowers have curved type cylinder blades that create a cutting action against a fixed plate. The blades make a spiral around the reel axis, and as they spin, the spiral of blades forces grass past the stationary plate.
Contact (friction) Mowers
This is the “older” more conventional form of cutting method. The cylinder blades are in direct contact with the bed knife and scrape across each other very similar to scissors shearing together. There is generally more friction (hence the name) which causes these mowers to be slightly more difficult to push. The friction also causes noise which can vary depending on each model – some are more quiet than others. Friction mowers generally need to be sharpened every 2 to 3 seasons. If you have a yard full of weeds then a friction mower is the best choice.
Contact-Free (frictionless) Mowers
The newer more modern reel mowers use a contact-free or frictionless cutting system. The term contact-free is used to describe a small gap (usually around 0.05mm) between the reel mower blades and the bed knife. The gap is roughly the width of a human hair and small enough to cut grass, yet big enough to eliminate all friction and noise caused by friction. Contact-free reel mowers are easier to push then the older style making them more fun to use and less tiring. Contact-free mowers cut best when used on healthy turf with minimal weeds. These mowers also cut best when used at lower cutting heights. There are some models available today that claim to be used on 2-3″ cutting range, however, much of the grass is left behind. The best cutting height range is 1-1.75″. Contact-free reel mowers usually do not need to be sharpened for at least 5-10 years depending on use.
When Do The Reel Blades Need Sharpening?
Most mowers stay sharp between 2-4 years depending on use. This can vary from lawn to lawn and manufacturer to manufacturer. You can tell when your reel mower needs to be sharpened when much of the grass passes by the reel and is left uncut.
Contact-free mowers do not require sharpening. Instead, it is a best management practice to adjust the gap distance between the reel and the bed knife. This is very easy can be accomplished in less then 3mins and performed as frequently as needed.
Contact mowers require sharpening on the average of every 2 years. You can purchase do-it-yourself sharpening kit and sharpen your own reel mower.
What Is The Best Cutting Height?
This is a very popular question and a topic with a lot of misinformation – especially if you surf around the internet… Reel mowers cut best when the cutting height is set lower then 2″. When set higher then 2inches, some of the grass tends to get “missed” and multiple passes can be required. For more information please visit our section dedicated to Height Of Cut (HOC).
Should I Buy/Use A Grass Collector Bag?
Our general recommendation is no, however, below are list of the pros and cons. For more information please read about Grasscycling here.
PROs To A Grass Bag
-Grass clippings are good for the compost pile
-Can prevent weeds from spreading if cutting the seed stalks
-Slightly “cleaner” look is achieved when removing more then 1/3 the grass height.
-Wet grass clippings can smother together and will not filter down as easily.
CONs To A Grass Bag
-Grass clippings hold valuable nutrients which can be returned to the soil.
-Grass clippings less then 1inch will filter down to the soil.
-Grass clippings DO NOT cause thatch!
-Unlike rotary mowers, grass clippings are not blown into a pile, they are gently scattered (mulched) behind the mower
You can see grass bag options here:
I have Emerald Zoysia at my new house and I own have a 4 year John Deere 21″ push mower that does okay but I want to buy a new mower. What type of mower should I buy?
If quality of cut is your top priority, then a good reel mower is the only way to go – a rotary, homeowner grade push mower should be your last choice. Zoysiagrass mowed by a rotary lawn mower looks terrible and you tend to get round scalp marks every time you turn the mower…
We recommend a power reel mower or the Scotts Classic Mower.
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Reel lawn mowers used to be very very popular – remember? For many of you and especially those of you ages 12 to 40, you may know manual push reel mowers as, “that old mower my grandfather used have”. We recently discovered a fantastic and informative old magazine advertisement for The Genuine “PHILADELPHIA” Lawn Mowers. You can tell by reading the ad that reel lawn mowers once had a passionate following.
The advertisement reads:
Lawns or Links – Sun or Shade
That Grass thrives best which receives the best care and no factor plays a greater part in the development of fine lawns than does the Lawn Mower. Now, to the casual observer, all Lawn Mowers look pretty much alike. Paint and varnish, gilt lettering and fancy designs cover a multitude of Lawn Mower sins. That is why it pays to buy Mowers of known reputation. That is the reason why experienced buyers ask for The Genuine “PHILADELPHIA” Lawn Mowers.
They stand for fifty-five years of undivided efforts in one field. We originated, developed and improved, until to-day every “PHILADELPHIA” Mower is sold under the unqualified guarantee that they are of the highest standards in workmanship and materials.
Progressive Dealers the world over will show you any models. There are twenty-five styles all told, in Hand-Horse- and Motor-Mowers.
The Philadelphia Lawn Mower Company
31st and Chestnut Streets, Philadelphia, Pa., U.S.A.
 1924 Philadelphia Lawn Mower Advertisement VN:F [1.3.4_676] Rating: 10.0/10 (2 votes cast)
Your lawn will also respond to how frequently or infrequently it is mowed. Mowing too often places additional stress on the grass from water loss and soil compaction. Infrequent mowing, on the other hand, may result in scalping and a buildup of clippings on the surface that can contribute to disease and other problems (Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998, page 150). If you stick to the guide of removing not more than 33 to 40% of the above ground plant tissue (and less during periods of stress), you will find the proper balance in mowing frequency for your lawn.
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Managing Your Grass Clippings
Grass clippings will always be a part of lawn care. Because lawns grow at different rates depending on environmental conditions and management practices, it is important to tailor mowing, fertilizing, and watering to meet plant needs, yet avoid excessive growth. Grass clippings an inch or less in length filter down to the soil surface and decompose relatively quickly. Longer clippings have a tendency to remain above the lawn where they appear unsightly and can shade or smother grass beneath. Long clippings need to be removed to avoid both unsightliness and lawn damage.
Bagging clippings did not become commonplace until the 1950s when bagging attachments were designed for rotary motors. In nearly every instance, proper lawn care can greatly reduce or eliminate the need to collect clippings. In fact, clippings are a valuable source of nutrients. University of Minnesota soil test recommendations call for less nitrogen fertilizer if clippings are returned to the lawn. Also, the addition of organic matter in the form of clippings may help to improve the status of your soil if it is sandy or low in organic matter.
Contrary to popular belief, returning clippings to the lawn does not normally contribute to increased thatch formation. Thatch is a layer of undecomposed organic matter that builds up between the soil surface and the actively growing green vegetation. A thatch layer will develop if organic matter is produced faster than it is decomposed by microorganisms. The major factors contributing to thatch development are vigorous grass varieties, excessive nitrogen fertilization, infrequent mowing, and low soil oxygen levels. Small clippings are composed primarily of easily degradable compounds which break down rapidly and do not accumulate. Long clippings may contain wiry stem material that is slow to decompose.
Alternatives to Leaving Clippings
While leaving clippings on the lawn is recommended, certain instances make the practice inadvisable. The following are some exceptions to the rule:
If the lawn is heavily infested with certain leaf diseases, removing clippings may help reduce disease severity. If the lawn must be mowed when wet, clippings can mat together and smother the grass. If the grass has become too tall, clippings can mat together and smother the grass.
When clippings must be collected, using them as mulch in the garden or composting them are two good alternative disposal methods. Grass clippings can provide an effective mulch around garden plants. Mulching helps reduce weeds, conserve moisture, and modify soil temperatures. However, do not apply more than one or two inches of grass clippings as a mulch at one time. Wet grass clippings can mat down and prevent oxygen and moisture from getting down into the soil. When oxygen is limited, anaerobic decomposition of the clippings may take place, leading to the production of offensive odors. Do not use grassclippings as mulch if the lawn was recently treated with an herbicide for dandelions or other broadleaf types of weeds. If clippings are to be used as a mulch, then wait until its been mowed at least twice.
Composting involves mixing grass clippings and other plant materials with a small amount of soil containing microorganisms which decompose organic matter. Grass clippings are excellent additions to a compost pile because of their high nitrogen content. However, they should not be the only compost component. As with mulches, a thick layer of grass clippings in a compost pile will lead to bad odors from anaerobic decomposition. Mix them with dry materials such as leaves or straw. Clippings can be composted in the backyard or hauled to municipal composting sites.
Source:
“Managing Grass Clippings,” University of Minnesota, Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series: http://www.sustland.umn.edu/maint/mowing.htm[accessed on May 6, 2008].
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What is “Grasscycling” ? It is simply leaving your grass clippings on the lawn!
10 Reasons Why You Should Grasscyle
1. Grassclippings are a large portion of the waste stream so grasscycling will help reduce the amount of waste going to the landfill.
2. When properly clipped, grassclippings decompose quickly and release nutrients back into the soil.
3. You will have a healthier looking lawn.
4. Eliminates the necessity for collection and disposal.
5. It’s easy and can save time.
6. Grasscycling greatly reduces the need for fertilizer because grass clippings return nitrogen to the soil.
7. Frequent mowing at a low cutting height deprives the root system of nutrients and moisture. Longer grass blades create more shade, providing the soil protection from the sun.
8. By mowing at a raised height, you reduce stress that can retard root growth.
9. If you have a gardener, grasscycling will save your gardener time because there are no clippings that require collection and disposal. Encourage your gardener to grasscycle!
10. Grasscyling is good for your lawn.
How to grasscycle
Basic Rule: Do not cut any more than 1/3 of the length of the grass blade at one time.
Proper mowing is the key to grasscycling. Grass should be dry and the mower blades sharp. In the fast growing season you may have to cut every seven days-but in the slower growing season you might only need to cut your lawn every 7-14 days.
During a “wet season” or at a time your grass cannot be mowed as frequently as desired, you might have an excess of clippings. This is an excellent opportunity to put your clippings in a backyard compost pile.
Watering
Water in the early morning if possible. Do not over-water. Too much water will cause your lawn to develop shallow root systems. Water less frequently but deeper.
Fertilizing
Do not over fertilize. Proper fertilization is important, however, over fertilization can weaken a lawn by causing excessive growth. It is best to apply smaller quantities more frequently.
Lawnmowers:
There are several brands of recycling mowers available that cut grass into small pieces and force them into the soil. However, you do not necessarily need to purchase a recycling mower to grasscycle. Almost any mower will work by raising the cutting height. If your mower has a collection bag, remove it to allow clippings to drop into the soil. However, if your mower does not have a safety flap covering the opening where the bag fits into the chute, or a plug for the chute, contact your local retailer to purchase a retrofit kit.
Most Common Misconceptions:
Grasscycling causes thatch build up.
No! Studies have shown that grass roots are the primary cause of thatch, not grass clippings. And, a small amount of thatch is actually beneficial. It serves as a mulch, preventing water evaporation and soil compaction.
Grasscycling spreads lawn disease.
No! The primary cause of disease spread is improper watering and fertilizing. If a disease is present, infestation will occur whether you are grasscycling or not.
My lawn will look bad.
No! Grasscycling will give you a healthier looking lawn if it is mowed, watered, and fertilized properly.
Grasscycling is not new. Many parks and golf courses have been practicing grasscycling successfully for years.
Grass Clippings
Many homeowners remove grass clippings after mowing to prevent thatch buildup. However, it has been shown that grass clippings do not contribute significantly to thatch buildup. Clippings can remain on most lawns, and help to keep them healthy, as long as the grass is mowed often enough.
Source:
“Grasscycling,” Recycle Works: A Program of San Mateo County:
http://www.recycleworks.org/compost/grasscycling.html [accessed on May 6, 2008].
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The practice of mechanical mowing is less than 200 years old; before our modern era, grassy areas were maintained by grazing animals (in fact, sheep, in particular, are still used across the globe for this purpose). Turf was also maintained in earlier times with hand-held scythes for cutting and brooms for sweeping.
An English engineer named Edwin Budding invented the first mechanical mower in 1827. His prototype lawn mower was inspired by a carpet-trimming machine in a textile factory. The basic principle used in his mower is still found today in reel mowers: curved blades produce a cutting action alongside a stationary steel plate. The first machines, designed by Budding, were so heavy that they required three people to operate. Draft animals were also used to pull the first lawn mowers.
Manufacture of lawn mowers for general use began in the 1860s. By 1862, John Ferrabee (who bought the rights to manufacture lawn mowers from Edwin Budding) was making eight models in various roller sizes up to 36 inches. His company manufactured over five thousand machines until production ceased in 1863. Gasoline-powered mowers finally became available to a wide market in the 1920s when Colonel Edwin George popularized Moto-Mowers, built in a Detroit factory.
This information is summarized from Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management, by Nick Christians: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998, (chapter 8) and Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lawnmower.
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