Posts Tagged ‘grass height’
 Fiskars Momentum The new Fiskars Momentum reel mowers are now ready for your purchasing pleasure. We are gearing up for the summer 2010 mowing season, which means our stocking supply of momentum mowers will be here in just few weeks. We have partnered with Fiskars to make online ordering easy – you can even order your mower before our supply arrives!
The new Momentum mower has similar characteristics to the Scotts, Brill, Sunlawn, and EASUN mowers – however, it aims to target these reel mower ‘pain’ points, mainly bogging down in tall grass and clogging on small twigs. The Momentum® Reel Mower combines patent-pending technologies and Fiskars expertise in ergonomics to dramatically improve ease-of-use and cutting performance.
These new technologies include:
- InertiaDrive™ Technology: A large diameter cutting reel and heavy blades store energy much like a flywheel, so the Momentum® delivers twice the power to cut through small twigs, weeds or dense grass that clog other reel mowers. The mower also requires 30 percent less push force than standard reel mowers when cutting long grass.
- StaySharp™ Cutting System: Precision engineering allows grass to be cut without the blades touching – greatly reducing friction & blade wear. By eliminating the steel-on-steel contact that dulls standard reel mowers, peak performance can be maintained without annual sharpening.
- VersaCut™ Design: The Momentum® delivers the greatest cut range of any reel mower with cut height settings ranging from 1 to 4 inches. In addition, it edges three times closer than other reel mowers, and never leaves uncut strips under the wheels.
- Fiskars Ergonomics: The Momentum® incorporates a number of best in class convenience features to enhance the mowing experience – including an ergonomic height adjustable handle with a padded grip, a quick and easy one-touch cut height adjustment system, and a grass discharge chute that directs messy clippings forward, away from the user’s feet.
The Momentum® comes with a 4-year warranty – the longest available warranty for any reel mower on the market.
Why not put this new reel mower to the test today!
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We will continually add to this list of Popular Reel Mower Questions:
What is the difference between old and new cutting technologies?
All reel mowers have curved type cylinder blades that create a cutting action against a fixed plate. The blades make a spiral around the reel axis, and as they spin, the spiral of blades forces grass past the stationary plate.
Contact (friction) Mowers
This is the “older” more conventional form of cutting method. The cylinder blades are in direct contact with the bed knife and scrape across each other very similar to scissors shearing together. There is generally more friction (hence the name) which causes these mowers to be slightly more difficult to push. The friction also causes noise which can vary depending on each model – some are more quiet than others. Friction mowers generally need to be sharpened every 2 to 3 seasons. If you have a yard full of weeds then a friction mower is the best choice.
Contact-Free (frictionless) Mowers
The newer more modern reel mowers use a contact-free or frictionless cutting system. The term contact-free is used to describe a small gap (usually around 0.05mm) between the reel mower blades and the bed knife. The gap is roughly the width of a human hair and small enough to cut grass, yet big enough to eliminate all friction and noise caused by friction. Contact-free reel mowers are easier to push then the older style making them more fun to use and less tiring. Contact-free mowers cut best when used on healthy turf with minimal weeds. These mowers also cut best when used at lower cutting heights. There are some models available today that claim to be used on 2-3″ cutting range, however, much of the grass is left behind. The best cutting height range is 1-1.75″. Contact-free reel mowers usually do not need to be sharpened for at least 5-10 years depending on use.
When Do The Reel Blades Need Sharpening?
Most mowers stay sharp between 2-4 years depending on use. This can vary from lawn to lawn and manufacturer to manufacturer. You can tell when your reel mower needs to be sharpened when much of the grass passes by the reel and is left uncut.
Contact-free mowers do not require sharpening. Instead, it is a best management practice to adjust the gap distance between the reel and the bed knife. This is very easy can be accomplished in less then 3mins and performed as frequently as needed.
Contact mowers require sharpening on the average of every 2 years. You can purchase do-it-yourself sharpening kit and sharpen your own reel mower.
What Is The Best Cutting Height?
This is a very popular question and a topic with a lot of misinformation – especially if you surf around the internet… Reel mowers cut best when the cutting height is set lower then 2″. When set higher then 2inches, some of the grass tends to get “missed” and multiple passes can be required. For more information please visit our section dedicated to Height Of Cut (HOC).
Should I Buy/Use A Grass Collector Bag?
Our general recommendation is no, however, below are list of the pros and cons. For more information please read about Grasscycling here.
PROs To A Grass Bag
-Grass clippings are good for the compost pile
-Can prevent weeds from spreading if cutting the seed stalks
-Slightly “cleaner” look is achieved when removing more then 1/3 the grass height.
-Wet grass clippings can smother together and will not filter down as easily.
CONs To A Grass Bag
-Grass clippings hold valuable nutrients which can be returned to the soil.
-Grass clippings less then 1inch will filter down to the soil.
-Grass clippings DO NOT cause thatch!
-Unlike rotary mowers, grass clippings are not blown into a pile, they are gently scattered (mulched) behind the mower
You can see grass bag options here:
I have Emerald Zoysia at my new house and I own have a 4 year John Deere 21″ push mower that does okay but I want to buy a new mower. What type of mower should I buy?
If quality of cut is your top priority, then a good reel mower is the only way to go – a rotary, homeowner grade push mower should be your last choice. Zoysiagrass mowed by a rotary lawn mower looks terrible and you tend to get round scalp marks every time you turn the mower…
We recommend a power reel mower or the Scotts Classic Mower.
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I’ve talked about the highest quality grass in the world and it’s no coincidence that all of it is cut with reel mowers. Rotary mowers are virtually nonexistent in Europe where for centuries all manner of lawns have been mowed with reel mowers. The great gardeners of Europe wouldn’t consider mowing their prized lawns with a rotary mower. You shouldn’t either. I’d like to summarize some of the information I’ve discussed regarding mower cutting height – specifically when it relates to eco friendly reel mowers.
Much of what you may read and hear as you research proper mowing/cutting height suggests that your lawn should be at least 3 inches long to be successful and healthy. This is absolutely NOT true.
First things first, all good quality turf grass must have decent soil, adequate nutrition, and proper water to be successful and healthy. Given these elements in reasonable amounts it is proven on some of the finest stands of turf in the world that a shorter grass blade length or HOC will always produce a better stand of grass, and the only way to really achieve this good quality of cut at this recommended shorter HOC is with a reel mower. Again, a reel mower cuts by a scissors like action and cuts the blade cleanly inflicting as little damage to the leaf blade as possible and allows a cut height of any length all the way down to 1/16th of an inch and still provides good quality grass.
With a rotary lawn mower anything under 1 ¾ inches puts so much stress on the grass plant that it will soon decline and weeds will invade and the stand will get worse and worse with time. It simply can’t be done with a horizontal blade spinning at high speed that essentially tears the end of the grass blade.
Imagine taking a beautiful bouquet of roses and before placing them in a vase of water putting the stems into a whirring blender to put a fresh cut on the stem as the florist recommends instead of using scissors or a sharp knife. The resulting smashing action of the stem is the exact difference between mowing a tender grass blade with a rotary mower versus a reel mower. There simply is no comparison!!
Remember, the best quality grass in the world is all cut using reel mowers. Rotary mowers are practically nonexistent in much of Europe where for centuries lawns have been maintained using reel mowers. The grand gardeners of Europe would not even think about mowing their cherished lawns using a rotary mower. You shouldn’t either. The reel mower will remain the premiere mower of the future with so many environmental positives that we will talk about in the upcoming posts.
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In previous posts, I’ve primarily talked about the height of cut for warm season grass which is mostly Bermudagrass, and why shorter is usually better.
Let’s now look at cool season grasses:
Think for a minute about where you see the shortest mowed grass in the world…typically on athletic fields and golf courses – equally cool season as warm season grasses. It is also the most beautiful grass you will find. This in itself is enough to dispel the notion that grass has to be long to be high quality; in fact just the opposite is true as long as several general principals are applied.
Firstly, consider that golf greens are mowed shorter than 1/8th of an inch in today’s game and yet still have good quality roots systems and are incredibly dense. How is this possible? Sound cultural practices.
The grass isn’t allowed to grow up to two or three inches and then chopped to an 1/8th. It’s mowed everyday and just a small amount of leaf blade is removed. You can do the same thing in the realm of residential cutting, get great exercise, and have the best lawn on the block! I’m not suggesting that you mow every day, that wouldn’t be necessary even if you wanted to. But assume you mow your lawn at 1½ inches. You may need to mow it every 5-7 days, but it will not be difficult and your lawn will respond exceptionally well.
The reel mower cut has significant advantages over a rotary mower. Reel lawn mowers leave behind clean-cut grass, as if the grass had been cut with sharp scissors – this cylinder cutting method reduces disease, reduces clipping accumulation and other negative environmental factors we have discussed before. Another added benefit to the reel mower and a lower mowing height is the extra density you will see in your lawn. When each grass blade is able to stand straight up on its own and not shade the blades around it, more blades will develop generating a lusher stand of grass. The thicker the lawn, the harder it is for weeds to invade. The best defense against weeds is not a bag of weed killer but a strong stand of turfgrass to prevent their encroachment. A frequent cut with a reel mower will insure that clippings do not accumulate at a negative rate and keep the lawn looking good all the time. You can tailor a program to whatever you have time for and exactly how long you want your grass to be. If you can find a little extra time to mow frequently you will be amazed at the results. Trust me.
Please don’t be fooled, a higher cutting height is NOT better for the grass!!
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In my opinion, one of the reasons many so called ‘experts’ recommend a three inch cut for rotary lawn mowers is that they know it is NOT really a three inch cut. The reality is that the length of the grass blade left after mowing with a rotary lawn mower set to cut at three inches will always be much closer to two inches…read more.
What is the best HOC for the grass plant? If you look around the internet you may find that three inches seems to be a favorite recommendation. Why? There are many reasons for recommending a three inch cutting height, especially when using a rotary lawn mower. Interestingly, three inches is not the best HOC for the grass plant for many agronomic reasons.
What is the best height of cut for the grass on your lawn? There is no perfect or exact answer to this question so let’s discuss some of the variables that will impact this decision and why longer is often not better when mowing your yard. The very first thing to consider is what type of grass you have. This will be directly influenced by where in the country you live. If you live in the south or the west, you probably will have what we refer to as warm season grass, most typically a Bermuda grass variety, although there are many non Bermuda warm season grasses as well. If you live in the north down through the heart of the country or the mid-Atlantic, you probably have cool season grass, most likely Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass or a blend, although others exist here as well. The growth habit and physiology of these two types of grasses differ dramatically and we will discuss the differences elsewhere, but for now the important thing to remember is that warm season grass can tolerate and actually thrive at a very short mowing height, while cool season grasses generally prefer to be mowed slightly higher. What is not true is that either likes to be kept at an excessively long length and excessively long can legitimately be described as anything above three inches and shorter for warm season grass. Grass plants develop chlorophyll, the property that gives them their green color and nourishes them through a process called photosynthesis. This process is encouraged by sunlight. That is one of the reasons you have such a hard time growing grass under those large shade trees in your yard, no sun. Three inch grass blades and longer only serve to shade themselves, like when we wear a hat and this shade inhibits photosynthesis. At two inches, you have 33% less shade and a better developed leaf blade…
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Recommended Mowing Heights
The following reference chart is helpful for determining the proper height of cut for your reel mower. It is also important to remember the “1/3rd” rule so that you do not stress the grass.
| Species |
Normal Weather
|
High-Temperature
Stress Period
|
| Colonial bentgrass |
0.30 – 0.80
|
0.50 – 0.80
|
| Creeping bentgrass |
0.125 – 0.80
|
0.188 – 0.80
|
| Fine fescue |
0.50 – 2.00
|
1.50 – 3.00
|
| Kentucky bluegrass |
1.50 – 2.25
|
2.25 – 3.00
|
| Perennial ryegrass |
1.50- 2.00
|
2.00 – 3.00
|
| Tall fescue |
1.75 – 3.00
|
2.50 – 3.50
|
| Bermudagrass |
0.25 – 1.50
|
NA
|
| Bahiagrass |
1.50 – 3.00
|
NA
|
| Buffalograss |
1.00 to unmowed
|
NA
|
| Carpetgrass |
1.00 – 3.00
|
NA
|
| Centipedegrass |
1.00 – 3.00
|
NA
|
| Seashore paspalum |
0.45 – 2.00
|
NA
|
| St. Augustinegrass |
3.00 – 4.00
|
NA
|
| Zoysiagrass |
0.50 – 2.00
|
NA
|
Source:
Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998.
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Measuring Your Lawn Mower’s Height of Cut
How do you determine more accurately what the true reel mower height of cut is? On most residential and commercial turfgrass surfaces this is not an exact science. Using three very simple steps it is possible to make close approximations with any push reel mower.
Step 1.
The height of cut (HOC) must be measured on a freshly mowed lawn. Take a few minutes and push your reel mower using the height setting of your choice, or the setting of which you intend to measure.
Step 2.
Take out a ruler or a tape measure and push the end down into the grass until it sits firmly on the soil or on the thatch layer of the lawn.
Step 3.
While making sure the grass is standing upright measure to the top of a freshly mowed blade. The resulting number will be the approximate height of cut that you are actually mowing at. It is sometimes a good idea to measure 5+ grass blades using the average length as the final HOC.
Suggested Mowing Heights
| Species |
Normal Weather
|
High-Temperature
Stress Periods
|
| Colonial bentgrass |
0.30 – 0.80
|
0.50 – 0.80
|
| Creeping bentgrass |
0.125 – 0.80
|
0.188 – 0.80
|
| Fine fescue |
0.50 – 2.00
|
1.50 – 3.00
|
| Kentucky bluegrass |
1.50 – 2.25
|
2.25 – 3.00
|
| Perennial ryegrass |
1.50- 2.00
|
2.00 – 3.00
|
| Tall fescue |
1.75 – 3.00
|
2.50 – 3.50
|
| Bermudagrass |
0.25 – 1.50
|
NA
|
| Bahiagrass |
1.50 – 3.00
|
NA
|
| Buffalograss |
1.00 to unmowed
|
NA
|
| Carpetgrass |
1.00 – 3.00
|
NA
|
| Centipedegrass |
1.00 – 3.00
|
NA
|
| Seashore paspalum |
0.45 – 2.00
|
NA
|
| St. Augustinegrass |
3.00 – 4.00
|
NA
|
| Zoysiagrass |
0.50 – 2.00
|
NA
|
Source:
Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998.
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Managing Your Grass Clippings
Grass clippings will always be a part of lawn care. Because lawns grow at different rates depending on environmental conditions and management practices, it is important to tailor mowing, fertilizing, and watering to meet plant needs, yet avoid excessive growth. Grass clippings an inch or less in length filter down to the soil surface and decompose relatively quickly. Longer clippings have a tendency to remain above the lawn where they appear unsightly and can shade or smother grass beneath. Long clippings need to be removed to avoid both unsightliness and lawn damage.
Bagging clippings did not become commonplace until the 1950s when bagging attachments were designed for rotary motors. In nearly every instance, proper lawn care can greatly reduce or eliminate the need to collect clippings. In fact, clippings are a valuable source of nutrients. University of Minnesota soil test recommendations call for less nitrogen fertilizer if clippings are returned to the lawn. Also, the addition of organic matter in the form of clippings may help to improve the status of your soil if it is sandy or low in organic matter.
Contrary to popular belief, returning clippings to the lawn does not normally contribute to increased thatch formation. Thatch is a layer of undecomposed organic matter that builds up between the soil surface and the actively growing green vegetation. A thatch layer will develop if organic matter is produced faster than it is decomposed by microorganisms. The major factors contributing to thatch development are vigorous grass varieties, excessive nitrogen fertilization, infrequent mowing, and low soil oxygen levels. Small clippings are composed primarily of easily degradable compounds which break down rapidly and do not accumulate. Long clippings may contain wiry stem material that is slow to decompose.
Alternatives to Leaving Clippings
While leaving clippings on the lawn is recommended, certain instances make the practice inadvisable. The following are some exceptions to the rule:
If the lawn is heavily infested with certain leaf diseases, removing clippings may help reduce disease severity. If the lawn must be mowed when wet, clippings can mat together and smother the grass. If the grass has become too tall, clippings can mat together and smother the grass.
When clippings must be collected, using them as mulch in the garden or composting them are two good alternative disposal methods. Grass clippings can provide an effective mulch around garden plants. Mulching helps reduce weeds, conserve moisture, and modify soil temperatures. However, do not apply more than one or two inches of grass clippings as a mulch at one time. Wet grass clippings can mat down and prevent oxygen and moisture from getting down into the soil. When oxygen is limited, anaerobic decomposition of the clippings may take place, leading to the production of offensive odors. Do not use grassclippings as mulch if the lawn was recently treated with an herbicide for dandelions or other broadleaf types of weeds. If clippings are to be used as a mulch, then wait until its been mowed at least twice.
Composting involves mixing grass clippings and other plant materials with a small amount of soil containing microorganisms which decompose organic matter. Grass clippings are excellent additions to a compost pile because of their high nitrogen content. However, they should not be the only compost component. As with mulches, a thick layer of grass clippings in a compost pile will lead to bad odors from anaerobic decomposition. Mix them with dry materials such as leaves or straw. Clippings can be composted in the backyard or hauled to municipal composting sites.
Source:
“Managing Grass Clippings,” University of Minnesota, Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series: http://www.sustland.umn.edu/maint/mowing.htm[accessed on May 6, 2008].
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What is “Grasscycling” ? It is simply leaving your grass clippings on the lawn!
10 Reasons Why You Should Grasscyle
1. Grassclippings are a large portion of the waste stream so grasscycling will help reduce the amount of waste going to the landfill.
2. When properly clipped, grassclippings decompose quickly and release nutrients back into the soil.
3. You will have a healthier looking lawn.
4. Eliminates the necessity for collection and disposal.
5. It’s easy and can save time.
6. Grasscycling greatly reduces the need for fertilizer because grass clippings return nitrogen to the soil.
7. Frequent mowing at a low cutting height deprives the root system of nutrients and moisture. Longer grass blades create more shade, providing the soil protection from the sun.
8. By mowing at a raised height, you reduce stress that can retard root growth.
9. If you have a gardener, grasscycling will save your gardener time because there are no clippings that require collection and disposal. Encourage your gardener to grasscycle!
10. Grasscyling is good for your lawn.
How to grasscycle
Basic Rule: Do not cut any more than 1/3 of the length of the grass blade at one time.
Proper mowing is the key to grasscycling. Grass should be dry and the mower blades sharp. In the fast growing season you may have to cut every seven days-but in the slower growing season you might only need to cut your lawn every 7-14 days.
During a “wet season” or at a time your grass cannot be mowed as frequently as desired, you might have an excess of clippings. This is an excellent opportunity to put your clippings in a backyard compost pile.
Watering
Water in the early morning if possible. Do not over-water. Too much water will cause your lawn to develop shallow root systems. Water less frequently but deeper.
Fertilizing
Do not over fertilize. Proper fertilization is important, however, over fertilization can weaken a lawn by causing excessive growth. It is best to apply smaller quantities more frequently.
Lawnmowers:
There are several brands of recycling mowers available that cut grass into small pieces and force them into the soil. However, you do not necessarily need to purchase a recycling mower to grasscycle. Almost any mower will work by raising the cutting height. If your mower has a collection bag, remove it to allow clippings to drop into the soil. However, if your mower does not have a safety flap covering the opening where the bag fits into the chute, or a plug for the chute, contact your local retailer to purchase a retrofit kit.
Most Common Misconceptions:
Grasscycling causes thatch build up.
No! Studies have shown that grass roots are the primary cause of thatch, not grass clippings. And, a small amount of thatch is actually beneficial. It serves as a mulch, preventing water evaporation and soil compaction.
Grasscycling spreads lawn disease.
No! The primary cause of disease spread is improper watering and fertilizing. If a disease is present, infestation will occur whether you are grasscycling or not.
My lawn will look bad.
No! Grasscycling will give you a healthier looking lawn if it is mowed, watered, and fertilized properly.
Grasscycling is not new. Many parks and golf courses have been practicing grasscycling successfully for years.
Grass Clippings
Many homeowners remove grass clippings after mowing to prevent thatch buildup. However, it has been shown that grass clippings do not contribute significantly to thatch buildup. Clippings can remain on most lawns, and help to keep them healthy, as long as the grass is mowed often enough.
Source:
“Grasscycling,” Recycle Works: A Program of San Mateo County:
http://www.recycleworks.org/compost/grasscycling.html [accessed on May 6, 2008].
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Lawn mowing is more time consuming than any of the other cultural practices involved in caring for a lawn. Regular mowing with a sharp mower blade at the proper height will help keep grass growing vigorously and maintain adequate density to completely cover the soil surface. In addition, mowing with sharp blades will cut the grass blades cleanly rather than tearing and shredding them as would be the case with dull blades. This will cut down on the amount of water lost from the grass plant thereby conserving moisture and reducing the need for additional watering. Shredded ends of the grass blade are more susceptible to disease invasion and can increase the need for fungicides.
The general rules of thumb for mowing lawn grasses are to mow frequently, and allow the clippings to return to the lawn. Mowing frequency is based entirely on the growth rate of the grass. In spring and fall when grass is growing more vigorously, mowing should be more frequent than during mid-summer when growth rates slow. Mow often enough so that no more than 1/3 of the leaf surface of the grass plants is removed at one time. For example, if the finished height is two inches, mow whenever grass reaches three inches in height.
Height of cut plays a very important role in determining the maintenance needs of a lawn. Generally, the higher the height of cut the less the maintenance required. This is primarily due to the fact that higher heights of cut promote deeper root growth into the soil. Shorter heights of cut promote shallower root systems. Deep root systems have naturally greater access to soil water and nutrient reserves thereby increasing their ability to tolerate environmental stresses. Shallower root systems require greater attention to supplementing soil water and nutrient needs to keep the plants healthy and minimize exposure to adverse environmental stress. For most lawn areas, mowing at a height of two to three inches will provide a good quality turf.
In addition to larger and deeper root systems, higher heights of cut restrict the amount of light reaching the soil surface. Since many lawn weed seeds require light for germination, the increased shading from a higher height of cut will actually suppress weed germination and growth thereby cutting down the need for herbicide use or other weed control measures. This can be particularly helpful in controlling our warm season annual grasses such as crabgrass. In turn, this can reduce the dependence on preemergent herbicides for their control.
Mowing frequency is also increased with shorter heights of cut. For example, if the lawn is maintained at one inch, then only 1/2 inch of growth is needed before mowing is required assuming that no more than 1/3 of the top growth is removed at each mowing. On the other hand, if the height is maintained at 2.5 inches, then about 1 inch of growth could occur before mowing would be required. In general, the more growth needed before mowing is required, the longer the time interval between mowings.
Mowing too infrequently damages the lawn by removing too much of the plant at once. A substantial amount of leaf tissue is removed with infrequent mowing, while proper mowing removes a much smaller portion of leaf tissue. When mowed regularly, clippings filter down into the lawn, decompose rapidly, and recycle nutrients back into the lawn. Continually scalping the turf thinking that the frequency of mowing will be reduced is not only a myth but, can seriously weaken the grass plants inviting unwanted weed invasion and competition.
Increasing the mowing heights by an inch during mid-summer will improve the lawn’s ability to tolerate stress caused by heat and drying winds. It is also important to continue mowing throughout the fall until growth stops. The weather is usually warm enough for continued grass growth until early November. Lawns that are too tall at that time frequently mat down during winter, making them more susceptible to winter disease problems such as snow mold and invasion by mice or voles.
Change the direction of mowing each time to promote upright shoot growth. When the lawn is mowed in the same direction every time, the grass may lay down in the direction of mowing. By mowing at right angles every other time, this horizontal growth orientation will be minimized. In addition, the alternate mowing pattern will help prevent continuous scalping of high spots and help prevent soil compaction that may result from repeatedly following the same path.
Source:
“Mowing Practices,” University of Minnesota, Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series: http://www.sustland.umn.edu/maint/mowing.htm[accessed on May 6, 2008].
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