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Posts Tagged ‘frequency’

Height of Cut Continued Part 4

June 29th, 2009

I’ve talked about the highest quality grass in the world and it’s no coincidence that all of it is cut with reel mowers.  Rotary mowers are virtually nonexistent in Europe where for centuries all manner of lawns have been mowed with reel mowers.  The great gardeners of Europe wouldn’t consider mowing their prized lawns with a rotary mower.  You shouldn’t either.  I’d like to summarize some of the information I’ve discussed regarding mower cutting height – specifically when it relates to eco friendly reel mowers.

Much of what you may read and hear as you research proper mowing/cutting height suggests that your lawn should be at least 3 inches long to be successful and healthy.  This is absolutely NOT true.

First things first, all good quality turf grass must have decent soil, adequate nutrition, and proper water to be successful and healthy.  Given these elements in reasonable amounts it is proven on some of the finest stands of turf in the world that a shorter grass blade length or HOC will always produce a better stand of grass, and the only way to really achieve this good quality of cut at this recommended shorter HOC is with a reel mower.  Again, a reel mower cuts by a scissors like action and cuts the blade cleanly inflicting as little damage to the leaf blade as possible and allows a cut height of any length all the way down to 1/16th  of an inch and still provides good quality grass.

With a rotary lawn mower anything under  1 ¾ inches puts so much stress on the grass plant that it will soon decline and weeds will invade and the stand will get worse and worse with time.  It simply can’t be done with a horizontal blade spinning at high speed that essentially tears the end of the grass blade.

Imagine taking a beautiful bouquet of roses and before placing them in a vase of water putting the stems into a whirring blender to put a fresh cut on the stem as the florist recommends instead of using scissors or a sharp knife.  The resulting smashing action of the stem is the exact difference between mowing a tender grass blade with a rotary mower versus a reel mower.  There simply is no comparison!!

Remember, the best quality grass in the world is all cut using reel mowers.  Rotary mowers are practically nonexistent in much of Europe where for centuries lawns have been maintained using reel mowers.  The grand gardeners of Europe would not even think about mowing their cherished lawns using a rotary mower.  You shouldn’t either.  The reel mower will remain the premiere mower of the future with so many environmental positives that we will talk about in the upcoming posts.

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Height of Cut Continued Part 3

June 26th, 2009

In previous posts, I’ve primarily talked about the height of cut for warm season grass which is mostly Bermudagrass, and why shorter is usually better.

Let’s now look at cool season grasses:

Think for a minute about where you see the shortest mowed grass in the world…typically on athletic fields and golf courses – equally cool season as warm season grasses.  It is also the most beautiful grass you will find.  This in itself is enough to dispel the notion that grass has to be long to be high quality; in fact just the opposite is true as long as several general principals are applied.

Firstly, consider that golf greens are mowed shorter than 1/8th of an inch in today’s game and yet still have good quality roots systems and are incredibly dense.  How is this possible?  Sound cultural practices.

The grass isn’t allowed to grow up to two or three inches and then chopped to an 1/8th.  It’s mowed everyday and just a small amount of leaf blade is removed.  You can do the same thing in the realm of residential cutting, get great exercise, and have the best lawn on the block!  I’m not suggesting that you mow every day, that wouldn’t be necessary even if you wanted to.  But assume you mow your lawn at 1½ inches.  You may need to mow it every 5-7 days, but it will not be difficult and your lawn will respond exceptionally well.

The reel mower cut has significant advantages  over a rotary mower.  Reel lawn mowers leave behind clean-cut grass, as if the grass had been cut with sharp scissors – this cylinder cutting method reduces disease, reduces clipping accumulation and other negative environmental factors we have discussed before.  Another added benefit to the reel mower and a lower mowing height is the extra density you will see in your lawn.  When each grass blade is able to stand straight up on its own and not shade the blades around it, more blades will develop generating a lusher stand of grass.  The thicker the lawn, the harder it is for weeds to invade.  The best defense against weeds is not a bag of weed killer but a strong stand of turfgrass to prevent their encroachment. A frequent cut with a reel mower will insure that clippings do not accumulate at a negative rate and keep the lawn looking good all the time.  You can tailor a program to whatever you have time for and exactly how long you want your grass to be.  If you can find a little extra time to mow frequently you will be amazed at the results.  Trust me.

Please don’t be fooled, a higher cutting height is NOT better for the grass!!

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Recommended Turfgrass Mowing Heights

May 30th, 2009

Recommended Mowing Heights

The following reference chart is helpful for determining the proper height of cut for your reel mower.  It is also important to remember the “1/3rd” rule so that you do not stress the grass.

Species

Normal Weather

High-Temperature

Stress Period

Colonial bentgrass

0.30 – 0.80

0.50 – 0.80

Creeping bentgrass

0.125 – 0.80

0.188 – 0.80

Fine fescue

0.50 – 2.00

1.50 – 3.00

Kentucky bluegrass

1.50 – 2.25

2.25 – 3.00

Perennial ryegrass

1.50- 2.00

2.00 – 3.00

Tall fescue

1.75 – 3.00

2.50 – 3.50

Bermudagrass

0.25 – 1.50

NA

Bahiagrass

1.50 – 3.00

NA

Buffalograss

1.00 to unmowed

NA

Carpetgrass

1.00 – 3.00

NA

Centipedegrass

1.00 – 3.00

NA

Seashore paspalum

0.45 – 2.00

NA

St. Augustinegrass

3.00 – 4.00

NA

Zoysiagrass

0.50 – 2.00

NA

Source:

Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998.

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Mowing Frequency – when should you mow?

May 13th, 2009

Your lawn will also respond to how frequently or infrequently it is mowed. Mowing too often places additional stress on the grass from water loss and soil compaction. Infrequent mowing, on the other hand, may result in scalping and a buildup of clippings on the surface that can contribute to disease and other problems (Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998, page 150). If you stick to the guide of removing not more than 33 to 40% of the above ground plant tissue (and less during periods of stress), you will find the proper balance in mowing frequency for your lawn.

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Lawn Mowing Practices

May 13th, 2009

Lawn mowing is more time consuming than any of the other cultural practices involved in caring for a lawn. Regular mowing with a sharp mower blade at the proper height will help keep grass growing vigorously and maintain adequate density to completely cover the soil surface. In addition, mowing with sharp blades will cut the grass blades cleanly rather than tearing and shredding them as would be the case with dull blades. This will cut down on the amount of water lost from the grass plant thereby conserving moisture and reducing the need for additional watering. Shredded ends of the grass blade are more susceptible to disease invasion and can increase the need for fungicides.

The general rules of thumb for mowing lawn grasses are to mow frequently, and allow the clippings to return to the lawn. Mowing frequency is based entirely on the growth rate of the grass. In spring and fall when grass is growing more vigorously, mowing should be more frequent than during mid-summer when growth rates slow. Mow often enough so that no more than 1/3 of the leaf surface of the grass plants is removed at one time. For example, if the finished height is two inches, mow whenever grass reaches three inches in height.

Height of cut plays a very important role in determining the maintenance needs of a lawn. Generally, the higher the height of cut the less the maintenance required. This is primarily due to the fact that higher heights of cut promote deeper root growth into the soil. Shorter heights of cut promote shallower root systems. Deep root systems have naturally greater access to soil water and nutrient reserves thereby increasing their ability to tolerate environmental stresses. Shallower root systems require greater attention to supplementing soil water and nutrient needs to keep the plants healthy and minimize exposure to adverse environmental stress. For most lawn areas, mowing at a height of two to three inches will provide a good quality turf.

In addition to larger and deeper root systems, higher heights of cut restrict the amount of light reaching the soil surface. Since many lawn weed seeds require light for germination, the increased shading from a higher height of cut will actually suppress weed germination and growth thereby cutting down the need for herbicide use or other weed control measures. This can be particularly helpful in controlling our warm season annual grasses such as crabgrass. In turn, this can reduce the dependence on preemergent herbicides for their control.

Mowing frequency is also increased with shorter heights of cut. For example, if the lawn is maintained at one inch, then only 1/2 inch of growth is needed before mowing is required assuming that no more than 1/3 of the top growth is removed at each mowing. On the other hand, if the height is maintained at 2.5 inches, then about 1 inch of growth could occur before mowing would be required. In general, the more growth needed before mowing is required, the longer the time interval between mowings.

Mowing too infrequently damages the lawn by removing too much of the plant at once. A substantial amount of leaf tissue is removed with infrequent mowing, while proper mowing removes a much smaller portion of leaf tissue. When mowed regularly, clippings filter down into the lawn, decompose rapidly, and recycle nutrients back into the lawn. Continually scalping the turf thinking that the frequency of mowing will be reduced is not only a myth but, can seriously weaken the grass plants inviting unwanted weed invasion and competition.

Increasing the mowing heights by an inch during mid-summer will improve the lawn’s ability to tolerate stress caused by heat and drying winds. It is also important to continue mowing throughout the fall until growth stops. The weather is usually warm enough for continued grass growth until early November. Lawns that are too tall at that time frequently mat down during winter, making them more susceptible to winter disease problems such as snow mold and invasion by mice or voles.

Change the direction of mowing each time to promote upright shoot growth. When the lawn is mowed in the same direction every time, the grass may lay down in the direction of mowing. By mowing at right angles every other time, this horizontal growth orientation will be minimized. In addition, the alternate mowing pattern will help prevent continuous scalping of high spots and help prevent soil compaction that may result from repeatedly following the same path.

Source:
“Mowing Practices,” University of Minnesota, Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series: http://www.sustland.umn.edu/maint/mowing.htm[accessed on May 6, 2008].

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