Posts Tagged ‘cultural practices’
 Firebelly Organics We recently read in a SafeLawns.org blog post about the 2010 launch of Firebelly Organics. Tom Kelly of Milford, N.H., a former pesticide applicator has much of New England buzzing over his revolutionary, easy-to-use lawn care program made from 100 percent organic ingredients.
After a few phone and email conversations with both Tom Kelly and his wife Debra (Sales & Marketing), we are impressed and excited to share their company and their story with the ecomowers.com community. Signing up for their monthly lawn care program might just be the perfect complement with your ecomower.
About Firebelly Organics:
Fire Belly Organic Lawn Care honestly believes we can make the world a much better place by simply changing the way we treat our lawns. When we eliminate the overuse of dangerous pesticides and chemical fertilizers we are taking a step towards saving the environment and creating a healthier world for our children, pets and families.
Located in New Hampshire, Fire Belly provides a seasonal, do it yourself, six step organic lawn care program to customers all over The United States and Canada. We are also a leading provider of organic lawn care products to the organic lawn care applicator industry. By simplifying process in which you can treat your lawn organically Fire Belly leads the way in converting turf care programs from a dangerous chemical process to a safe natural approach.
 Firebelly Organics Fire Belly is dedicated to providing effective environmentally responsible products that address soil biology. Our horticultural products feed the soil through the introduction of select beneficial microbial species allowing them to facilitate the natural processes inherent to healthy plant growth. We blend a diverse array of beneficial soil microorganisms with natural plant extracts and organic nutrients to create microbial systems. These natural systems simultaneously feed the soil and the plant, which allows plants to grow to their full genetic potential
We not only want to provide you with the proper products to treat your lawn but we also want to help you with any and all concerns when it comes to the care of turf. When you sign up for the Fire Belly program you are getting many years of agronomic experience that we hope you will put to use by constantly asking questions. When outstanding products come together with outstanding education and information you can have an outstanding lawn…naturally.
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I’ve talked about the highest quality grass in the world and it’s no coincidence that all of it is cut with reel mowers. Rotary mowers are virtually nonexistent in Europe where for centuries all manner of lawns have been mowed with reel mowers. The great gardeners of Europe wouldn’t consider mowing their prized lawns with a rotary mower. You shouldn’t either. I’d like to summarize some of the information I’ve discussed regarding mower cutting height – specifically when it relates to eco friendly reel mowers.
Much of what you may read and hear as you research proper mowing/cutting height suggests that your lawn should be at least 3 inches long to be successful and healthy. This is absolutely NOT true.
First things first, all good quality turf grass must have decent soil, adequate nutrition, and proper water to be successful and healthy. Given these elements in reasonable amounts it is proven on some of the finest stands of turf in the world that a shorter grass blade length or HOC will always produce a better stand of grass, and the only way to really achieve this good quality of cut at this recommended shorter HOC is with a reel mower. Again, a reel mower cuts by a scissors like action and cuts the blade cleanly inflicting as little damage to the leaf blade as possible and allows a cut height of any length all the way down to 1/16th of an inch and still provides good quality grass.
With a rotary lawn mower anything under 1 ¾ inches puts so much stress on the grass plant that it will soon decline and weeds will invade and the stand will get worse and worse with time. It simply can’t be done with a horizontal blade spinning at high speed that essentially tears the end of the grass blade.
Imagine taking a beautiful bouquet of roses and before placing them in a vase of water putting the stems into a whirring blender to put a fresh cut on the stem as the florist recommends instead of using scissors or a sharp knife. The resulting smashing action of the stem is the exact difference between mowing a tender grass blade with a rotary mower versus a reel mower. There simply is no comparison!!
Remember, the best quality grass in the world is all cut using reel mowers. Rotary mowers are practically nonexistent in much of Europe where for centuries lawns have been maintained using reel mowers. The grand gardeners of Europe would not even think about mowing their cherished lawns using a rotary mower. You shouldn’t either. The reel mower will remain the premiere mower of the future with so many environmental positives that we will talk about in the upcoming posts.
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In previous posts, I’ve primarily talked about the height of cut for warm season grass which is mostly Bermudagrass, and why shorter is usually better.
Let’s now look at cool season grasses:
Think for a minute about where you see the shortest mowed grass in the world…typically on athletic fields and golf courses – equally cool season as warm season grasses. It is also the most beautiful grass you will find. This in itself is enough to dispel the notion that grass has to be long to be high quality; in fact just the opposite is true as long as several general principals are applied.
Firstly, consider that golf greens are mowed shorter than 1/8th of an inch in today’s game and yet still have good quality roots systems and are incredibly dense. How is this possible? Sound cultural practices.
The grass isn’t allowed to grow up to two or three inches and then chopped to an 1/8th. It’s mowed everyday and just a small amount of leaf blade is removed. You can do the same thing in the realm of residential cutting, get great exercise, and have the best lawn on the block! I’m not suggesting that you mow every day, that wouldn’t be necessary even if you wanted to. But assume you mow your lawn at 1½ inches. You may need to mow it every 5-7 days, but it will not be difficult and your lawn will respond exceptionally well.
The reel mower cut has significant advantages over a rotary mower. Reel lawn mowers leave behind clean-cut grass, as if the grass had been cut with sharp scissors – this cylinder cutting method reduces disease, reduces clipping accumulation and other negative environmental factors we have discussed before. Another added benefit to the reel mower and a lower mowing height is the extra density you will see in your lawn. When each grass blade is able to stand straight up on its own and not shade the blades around it, more blades will develop generating a lusher stand of grass. The thicker the lawn, the harder it is for weeds to invade. The best defense against weeds is not a bag of weed killer but a strong stand of turfgrass to prevent their encroachment. A frequent cut with a reel mower will insure that clippings do not accumulate at a negative rate and keep the lawn looking good all the time. You can tailor a program to whatever you have time for and exactly how long you want your grass to be. If you can find a little extra time to mow frequently you will be amazed at the results. Trust me.
Please don’t be fooled, a higher cutting height is NOT better for the grass!!
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Measuring Your Lawn Mower’s Height of Cut
How do you determine more accurately what the true reel mower height of cut is? On most residential and commercial turfgrass surfaces this is not an exact science. Using three very simple steps it is possible to make close approximations with any push reel mower.
Step 1.
The height of cut (HOC) must be measured on a freshly mowed lawn. Take a few minutes and push your reel mower using the height setting of your choice, or the setting of which you intend to measure.
Step 2.
Take out a ruler or a tape measure and push the end down into the grass until it sits firmly on the soil or on the thatch layer of the lawn.
Step 3.
While making sure the grass is standing upright measure to the top of a freshly mowed blade. The resulting number will be the approximate height of cut that you are actually mowing at. It is sometimes a good idea to measure 5+ grass blades using the average length as the final HOC.
Suggested Mowing Heights
| Species |
Normal Weather
|
High-Temperature
Stress Periods
|
| Colonial bentgrass |
0.30 – 0.80
|
0.50 – 0.80
|
| Creeping bentgrass |
0.125 – 0.80
|
0.188 – 0.80
|
| Fine fescue |
0.50 – 2.00
|
1.50 – 3.00
|
| Kentucky bluegrass |
1.50 – 2.25
|
2.25 – 3.00
|
| Perennial ryegrass |
1.50- 2.00
|
2.00 – 3.00
|
| Tall fescue |
1.75 – 3.00
|
2.50 – 3.50
|
| Bermudagrass |
0.25 – 1.50
|
NA
|
| Bahiagrass |
1.50 – 3.00
|
NA
|
| Buffalograss |
1.00 to unmowed
|
NA
|
| Carpetgrass |
1.00 – 3.00
|
NA
|
| Centipedegrass |
1.00 – 3.00
|
NA
|
| Seashore paspalum |
0.45 – 2.00
|
NA
|
| St. Augustinegrass |
3.00 – 4.00
|
NA
|
| Zoysiagrass |
0.50 – 2.00
|
NA
|
Source:
Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998.
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Although grasses are better equipped than other species to deal with cutting, even grasses have difficulty tolerating mowing. Mowing removes plant tissue that would otherwise perform photosynthesis and provide energy for the grass. Bottom line: mowing is always a stress on your grass.
As a rule, not more than 33 to 40% of the aboveground tissue should be removed in a single mowing (Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998, page 148). In addition, grass should be cut at an even higher setting during periods of stress (high temperatures, frequent compression, etc.).
For more information on particular turf species and cutting recommendations, see Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management, by Nick Christians: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998, (chapter 8, in particular).
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Reducing Lawn Area
By reducing the amount of lawn on a site, we will help to reduce water run-off, the amount of water used for irrigation, waste generated from clippings, pollution produced from mowers, edgers and weedeaters, pollution from fertilizers and pesticides, and money spent on maintenance.
Functional lawn.
Determine the minimal amount of functional lawn that is needed on a site for recreational purposes. One to two thousand square feet of lawn or less is adequate for most families. This process will help to reduce the amount of lawn that is installed as a default solution.
Use native fescue grasses.
These grasses are more drought tolerant, requiring less water than other typical turf grass.
Use a mulching mower or grasscycle.
Grasscycling is simply leaving your grass clippings on the lawn, a simple step that can reduce what is going to the landfill. Mulch mowers, while not a necessity, aid the process by cutting the grass into smaller pieces.
Replace turf with a wild lawn.
One replacement for traditional turf grass is a “wild lawn.” A wild lawn is created out of native grasses, wildflowers, and groundcovers. Native grasses stabilize soil and improve soil quality, increase water infiltration and fertility and recycle nutrients. Their deep and fibrous roots can tap deep soil water, allowing them to stay green year-round. Because of this, California native grasses are relatively inflammable and can provide low-maintenance fire buffers around residences. They also offer a long green forage season that benefits both wildlife and livestock, and can help prevent invasion by noxious alien weeds such as yellow starthistle.
Native grasses provide vital habitat to many species of insects, birds, reptiles and mammals. Their visual texture and beauty make them suitable for a wide variety of residential and urban landscapes. They contribute to sustainable agriculture and add value to both rural and urban areas. After the first two to three years, where weed control is important, wild lawns require virtually no maintenance. You only need to mow it once or twice a year.
Use sheet mulching to remove unwanted lawn areas.
Sheet mulching is a non-chemical method of removing the unwanted lawn areas. This is done by overlapping cardboard or newspaper on grass, covering this with layers of wood chips, compost (or other organic matter) and straw. These layers will smother the grass and create an organic planting bed environment. In addition, no digging or tilling is necessary.
Strive to get all of these ingredients locally. For example, boxes from a local merchant, wood chips from a local tree trimmer, coffee grounds, juice pulp, or rotten produce from local shops and stores. Manure can be acquired from area farms or racetracks.
Source:
“Reducing Lawn Area,” Recycle Works: A Program of San Mateo County:
http://www.recycleworks.org/greenbuilding/sus_lawnarea.html [accessed on May 6, 2008].
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Lawn mowing is more time consuming than any of the other cultural practices involved in caring for a lawn. Regular mowing with a sharp mower blade at the proper height will help keep grass growing vigorously and maintain adequate density to completely cover the soil surface. In addition, mowing with sharp blades will cut the grass blades cleanly rather than tearing and shredding them as would be the case with dull blades. This will cut down on the amount of water lost from the grass plant thereby conserving moisture and reducing the need for additional watering. Shredded ends of the grass blade are more susceptible to disease invasion and can increase the need for fungicides.
The general rules of thumb for mowing lawn grasses are to mow frequently, and allow the clippings to return to the lawn. Mowing frequency is based entirely on the growth rate of the grass. In spring and fall when grass is growing more vigorously, mowing should be more frequent than during mid-summer when growth rates slow. Mow often enough so that no more than 1/3 of the leaf surface of the grass plants is removed at one time. For example, if the finished height is two inches, mow whenever grass reaches three inches in height.
Height of cut plays a very important role in determining the maintenance needs of a lawn. Generally, the higher the height of cut the less the maintenance required. This is primarily due to the fact that higher heights of cut promote deeper root growth into the soil. Shorter heights of cut promote shallower root systems. Deep root systems have naturally greater access to soil water and nutrient reserves thereby increasing their ability to tolerate environmental stresses. Shallower root systems require greater attention to supplementing soil water and nutrient needs to keep the plants healthy and minimize exposure to adverse environmental stress. For most lawn areas, mowing at a height of two to three inches will provide a good quality turf.
In addition to larger and deeper root systems, higher heights of cut restrict the amount of light reaching the soil surface. Since many lawn weed seeds require light for germination, the increased shading from a higher height of cut will actually suppress weed germination and growth thereby cutting down the need for herbicide use or other weed control measures. This can be particularly helpful in controlling our warm season annual grasses such as crabgrass. In turn, this can reduce the dependence on preemergent herbicides for their control.
Mowing frequency is also increased with shorter heights of cut. For example, if the lawn is maintained at one inch, then only 1/2 inch of growth is needed before mowing is required assuming that no more than 1/3 of the top growth is removed at each mowing. On the other hand, if the height is maintained at 2.5 inches, then about 1 inch of growth could occur before mowing would be required. In general, the more growth needed before mowing is required, the longer the time interval between mowings.
Mowing too infrequently damages the lawn by removing too much of the plant at once. A substantial amount of leaf tissue is removed with infrequent mowing, while proper mowing removes a much smaller portion of leaf tissue. When mowed regularly, clippings filter down into the lawn, decompose rapidly, and recycle nutrients back into the lawn. Continually scalping the turf thinking that the frequency of mowing will be reduced is not only a myth but, can seriously weaken the grass plants inviting unwanted weed invasion and competition.
Increasing the mowing heights by an inch during mid-summer will improve the lawn’s ability to tolerate stress caused by heat and drying winds. It is also important to continue mowing throughout the fall until growth stops. The weather is usually warm enough for continued grass growth until early November. Lawns that are too tall at that time frequently mat down during winter, making them more susceptible to winter disease problems such as snow mold and invasion by mice or voles.
Change the direction of mowing each time to promote upright shoot growth. When the lawn is mowed in the same direction every time, the grass may lay down in the direction of mowing. By mowing at right angles every other time, this horizontal growth orientation will be minimized. In addition, the alternate mowing pattern will help prevent continuous scalping of high spots and help prevent soil compaction that may result from repeatedly following the same path.
Source:
“Mowing Practices,” University of Minnesota, Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series: http://www.sustland.umn.edu/maint/mowing.htm[accessed on May 6, 2008].
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