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Posts Tagged ‘clippings’

Height of Cut Continued Part 3

June 26th, 2009

In previous posts, I’ve primarily talked about the height of cut for warm season grass which is mostly Bermudagrass, and why shorter is usually better.

Let’s now look at cool season grasses:

Think for a minute about where you see the shortest mowed grass in the world…typically on athletic fields and golf courses – equally cool season as warm season grasses.  It is also the most beautiful grass you will find.  This in itself is enough to dispel the notion that grass has to be long to be high quality; in fact just the opposite is true as long as several general principals are applied.

Firstly, consider that golf greens are mowed shorter than 1/8th of an inch in today’s game and yet still have good quality roots systems and are incredibly dense.  How is this possible?  Sound cultural practices.

The grass isn’t allowed to grow up to two or three inches and then chopped to an 1/8th.  It’s mowed everyday and just a small amount of leaf blade is removed.  You can do the same thing in the realm of residential cutting, get great exercise, and have the best lawn on the block!  I’m not suggesting that you mow every day, that wouldn’t be necessary even if you wanted to.  But assume you mow your lawn at 1½ inches.  You may need to mow it every 5-7 days, but it will not be difficult and your lawn will respond exceptionally well.

The reel mower cut has significant advantages  over a rotary mower.  Reel lawn mowers leave behind clean-cut grass, as if the grass had been cut with sharp scissors – this cylinder cutting method reduces disease, reduces clipping accumulation and other negative environmental factors we have discussed before.  Another added benefit to the reel mower and a lower mowing height is the extra density you will see in your lawn.  When each grass blade is able to stand straight up on its own and not shade the blades around it, more blades will develop generating a lusher stand of grass.  The thicker the lawn, the harder it is for weeds to invade.  The best defense against weeds is not a bag of weed killer but a strong stand of turfgrass to prevent their encroachment. A frequent cut with a reel mower will insure that clippings do not accumulate at a negative rate and keep the lawn looking good all the time.  You can tailor a program to whatever you have time for and exactly how long you want your grass to be.  If you can find a little extra time to mow frequently you will be amazed at the results.  Trust me.

Please don’t be fooled, a higher cutting height is NOT better for the grass!!

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Recommended Turfgrass Mowing Heights

May 30th, 2009

Recommended Mowing Heights

The following reference chart is helpful for determining the proper height of cut for your reel mower.  It is also important to remember the “1/3rd” rule so that you do not stress the grass.

Species

Normal Weather

High-Temperature

Stress Period

Colonial bentgrass

0.30 – 0.80

0.50 – 0.80

Creeping bentgrass

0.125 – 0.80

0.188 – 0.80

Fine fescue

0.50 – 2.00

1.50 – 3.00

Kentucky bluegrass

1.50 – 2.25

2.25 – 3.00

Perennial ryegrass

1.50- 2.00

2.00 – 3.00

Tall fescue

1.75 – 3.00

2.50 – 3.50

Bermudagrass

0.25 – 1.50

NA

Bahiagrass

1.50 – 3.00

NA

Buffalograss

1.00 to unmowed

NA

Carpetgrass

1.00 – 3.00

NA

Centipedegrass

1.00 – 3.00

NA

Seashore paspalum

0.45 – 2.00

NA

St. Augustinegrass

3.00 – 4.00

NA

Zoysiagrass

0.50 – 2.00

NA

Source:

Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998.

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How Does Grass Respond To Mowing?

May 13th, 2009

Although grasses are better equipped than other species to deal with cutting, even grasses have difficulty tolerating mowing. Mowing removes plant tissue that would otherwise perform photosynthesis and provide energy for the grass. Bottom line: mowing is always a stress on your grass.

As a rule, not more than 33 to 40% of the aboveground tissue should be removed in a single mowing (Christians, Nick, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998, page 148). In addition, grass should be cut at an even higher setting during periods of stress (high temperatures, frequent compression, etc.).

For more information on particular turf species and cutting recommendations, see Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management, by Nick Christians: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998, (chapter 8, in particular).

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Managing Grass Clippings

May 13th, 2009

Managing Your Grass Clippings

Grass clippings will always be a part of lawn care. Because lawns grow at different rates depending on environmental conditions and management practices, it is important to tailor mowing, fertilizing, and watering to meet plant needs, yet avoid excessive growth. Grass clippings an inch or less in length filter down to the soil surface and decompose relatively quickly. Longer clippings have a tendency to remain above the lawn where they appear unsightly and can shade or smother grass beneath. Long clippings need to be removed to avoid both unsightliness and lawn damage.

Bagging clippings did not become commonplace until the 1950s when bagging attachments were designed for rotary motors. In nearly every instance, proper lawn care can greatly reduce or eliminate the need to collect clippings. In fact, clippings are a valuable source of nutrients. University of Minnesota soil test recommendations call for less nitrogen fertilizer if clippings are returned to the lawn. Also, the addition of organic matter in the form of clippings may help to improve the status of your soil if it is sandy or low in organic matter.

Contrary to popular belief, returning clippings to the lawn does not normally contribute to increased thatch formation. Thatch is a layer of undecomposed organic matter that builds up between the soil surface and the actively growing green vegetation. A thatch layer will develop if organic matter is produced faster than it is decomposed by microorganisms. The major factors contributing to thatch development are vigorous grass varieties, excessive nitrogen fertilization, infrequent mowing, and low soil oxygen levels. Small clippings are composed primarily of easily degradable compounds which break down rapidly and do not accumulate. Long clippings may contain wiry stem material that is slow to decompose.


Alternatives to Leaving Clippings

While leaving clippings on the lawn is recommended, certain instances make the practice inadvisable. The following are some exceptions to the rule:

If the lawn is heavily infested with certain leaf diseases, removing clippings may help reduce disease severity. If the lawn must be mowed when wet, clippings can mat together and smother the grass. If the grass has become too tall, clippings can mat together and smother the grass.

When clippings must be collected, using them as mulch in the garden or composting them are two good alternative disposal methods. Grass clippings can provide an effective mulch around garden plants. Mulching helps reduce weeds, conserve moisture, and modify soil temperatures. However, do not apply more than one or two inches of grass clippings as a mulch at one time. Wet grass clippings can mat down and prevent oxygen and moisture from getting down into the soil. When oxygen is limited, anaerobic decomposition of the clippings may take place, leading to the production of offensive odors. Do not use grassclippings as mulch if the lawn was recently treated with an herbicide for dandelions or other broadleaf types of weeds. If clippings are to be used as a mulch, then wait until its been mowed at least twice.

Composting involves mixing grass clippings and other plant materials with a small amount of soil containing microorganisms which decompose organic matter. Grass clippings are excellent additions to a compost pile because of their high nitrogen content. However, they should not be the only compost component. As with mulches, a thick layer of grass clippings in a compost pile will lead to bad odors from anaerobic decomposition. Mix them with dry materials such as leaves or straw. Clippings can be composted in the backyard or hauled to municipal composting sites.

Source:
“Managing Grass Clippings,” University of Minnesota, Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series: http://www.sustland.umn.edu/maint/mowing.htm[accessed on May 6, 2008].

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What is Grasscycling?

May 13th, 2009

What is “Grasscycling” ? It is simply leaving your grass clippings on the lawn!

10 Reasons Why You Should Grasscyle

1. Grassclippings are a large portion of the waste stream so grasscycling will help reduce the amount of waste going to the landfill.

2. When properly clipped, grassclippings decompose quickly and release nutrients back into the soil.

3. You will have a healthier looking lawn.

4. Eliminates the necessity for collection and disposal.

5. It’s easy and can save time.

6. Grasscycling greatly reduces the need for fertilizer because grass clippings return nitrogen to the soil.

7. Frequent mowing at a low cutting height deprives the root system of nutrients and moisture. Longer grass blades create more shade, providing the soil protection from the sun.

8. By mowing at a raised height, you reduce stress that can retard root growth.

9. If you have a gardener, grasscycling will save your gardener time because there are no clippings that require collection and disposal. Encourage your gardener to grasscycle!

10. Grasscyling is good for your lawn.


How to grasscycle

Basic Rule: Do not cut any more than 1/3 of the length of the grass blade at one time.

Proper mowing is the key to grasscycling. Grass should be dry and the mower blades sharp. In the fast growing season you may have to cut every seven days-but in the slower growing season you might only need to cut your lawn every 7-14 days.

During a “wet season” or at a time your grass cannot be mowed as frequently as desired, you might have an excess of clippings. This is an excellent opportunity to put your clippings in a backyard compost pile.

Watering
Water in the early morning if possible. Do not over-water. Too much water will cause your lawn to develop shallow root systems. Water less frequently but deeper.

Fertilizing
Do not over fertilize. Proper fertilization is important, however, over fertilization can weaken a lawn by causing excessive growth. It is best to apply smaller quantities more frequently.

Lawnmowers:
There are several brands of recycling mowers available that cut grass into small pieces and force them into the soil. However, you do not necessarily need to purchase a recycling mower to grasscycle. Almost any mower will work by raising the cutting height. If your mower has a collection bag, remove it to allow clippings to drop into the soil. However, if your mower does not have a safety flap covering the opening where the bag fits into the chute, or a plug for the chute, contact your local retailer to purchase a retrofit kit.

Most Common Misconceptions:

Grasscycling causes thatch build up.
No! Studies have shown that grass roots are the primary cause of thatch, not grass clippings. And, a small amount of thatch is actually beneficial. It serves as a mulch, preventing water evaporation and soil compaction.

Grasscycling spreads lawn disease.
No! The primary cause of disease spread is improper watering and fertilizing. If a disease is present, infestation will occur whether you are grasscycling or not.

My lawn will look bad.
No! Grasscycling will give you a healthier looking lawn if it is mowed, watered, and fertilized properly.

Grasscycling is not new. Many parks and golf courses have been practicing grasscycling successfully for years.


Grass Clippings

Many homeowners remove grass clippings after mowing to prevent thatch buildup. However, it has been shown that grass clippings do not contribute significantly to thatch buildup. Clippings can remain on most lawns, and help to keep them healthy, as long as the grass is mowed often enough.

Source:

“Grasscycling,” Recycle Works: A Program of San Mateo County:
http://www.recycleworks.org/compost/grasscycling.html [accessed on May 6, 2008].

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