Archive for the ‘Lawn and Turf Care’ Category
The two principal types of mowers available for use on home lawns include “reel” and “rotary” mowers. Regardless which type is chosen, it is very important to keep the mower blades as sharp as possible. Dull mowers tear grass blades rather than cutting them. This results in injured plants.
Reel mowers have a series of revolving blades that cut against a stationary bedknife, much like a scissors. While reel mowers provide the finest quality of cut available, they are expensive, not easily adjusted, and require specialized equipment for sharpening. Also, they can’t be used where stones, twigs, or other debris are a problem because of potential damage to the cutting units.
Rotary mowers have a whirling horizontal blade. Rotating blades have the potential for throwing stones or other small objects in the path of the mower. Therefore, rotary mowers are more dangerous than the reel mowers. They cut the grass by impact, similar to the way a machete works. This causes a rougher, more uneven cut than reel mowers. However, rotary mowers do an acceptable job on virtually any lawn. In addition, they are easier to maintain then reel mowers and can cut taller grass.
Mulching or recycling mowers are now available. A mulching mower recuts grass clippings into smaller pieces and redistributes them uniformly back into the lawn for rapid decay. When the turf is wet, clumping is common with mulching mowers because of the excess water present.
Modern mowers are equipped with certain safety devices which should not be removed or tampered with. One safety feature is a blade that stops turning when the operator’s hands are removed from the controls. Another is a rear-mounted rope pull for starting the mower. This reduces the chance of getting one’s foot caught in the blades during starting. Many rotary motors have bagging attachments which affect mower safety. The manufacturer may have a special attachment which is required for safe mowing without a bag. Similarly, discharge chute shields on nonbagging mowers should not be removed. All mowing equipment should be kept in good working condition. Mowers should be sharpened and adjusted frequently to assure a clean cut. A dull rotary mower frays the ends of grass blades and results in brown tips, which are unsightly and increase the plants’ susceptibility to certain plant diseases. Slopes greater than about four to one are both difficult and dangerous to mow. These slopes are good candidates for alternative ground covers that will stabilize the bank and eliminate the need for routine maintenance such as mowing. Pick up rocks, wires, and sticks before mowing to prevent them from becoming dangerous projectiles. Keep all spectators away from the mower while it is in operation. Young children should not be allowed to operate mowers until they can handle them easily. Use earplugs when operating noisy power mowers. Wear sturdy shoes that protect the feet. Always push the mower forward. Never pull it backward in a motion where a slip will allow your foot under the mower deck. Mow across a slope, not up and down for the same reason.Another safety tip is to delay mowing grass when it is wet. Dry grass is less apt to plug mowers. Footing is better on dry grass, and good footing is important in steep slopes.
Finally, there is a growing movement among people with small, easily managed yards, back to “old-fashioned” push-type reel mowers. Newer versions are smaller, lighter-weight, and easier to push than the old clunkers you may have used as a youngster. They have the advantage of quiet, fuel-free operation, and can provide good exercise at the same time. If your property isn’t too large, consider these mowers when shopping for a new one.
Source:
“Mowers and Mowing Safety,” University of Minnesota, Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series: http://www.sustland.umn.edu/maint/mowing.htm[accessed on May 6, 2008].
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Lawn mowing is more time consuming than any of the other cultural practices involved in caring for a lawn. Regular mowing with a sharp mower blade at the proper height will help keep grass growing vigorously and maintain adequate density to completely cover the soil surface. In addition, mowing with sharp blades will cut the grass blades cleanly rather than tearing and shredding them as would be the case with dull blades. This will cut down on the amount of water lost from the grass plant thereby conserving moisture and reducing the need for additional watering. Shredded ends of the grass blade are more susceptible to disease invasion and can increase the need for fungicides.
The general rules of thumb for mowing lawn grasses are to mow frequently, and allow the clippings to return to the lawn. Mowing frequency is based entirely on the growth rate of the grass. In spring and fall when grass is growing more vigorously, mowing should be more frequent than during mid-summer when growth rates slow. Mow often enough so that no more than 1/3 of the leaf surface of the grass plants is removed at one time. For example, if the finished height is two inches, mow whenever grass reaches three inches in height.
Height of cut plays a very important role in determining the maintenance needs of a lawn. Generally, the higher the height of cut the less the maintenance required. This is primarily due to the fact that higher heights of cut promote deeper root growth into the soil. Shorter heights of cut promote shallower root systems. Deep root systems have naturally greater access to soil water and nutrient reserves thereby increasing their ability to tolerate environmental stresses. Shallower root systems require greater attention to supplementing soil water and nutrient needs to keep the plants healthy and minimize exposure to adverse environmental stress. For most lawn areas, mowing at a height of two to three inches will provide a good quality turf.
In addition to larger and deeper root systems, higher heights of cut restrict the amount of light reaching the soil surface. Since many lawn weed seeds require light for germination, the increased shading from a higher height of cut will actually suppress weed germination and growth thereby cutting down the need for herbicide use or other weed control measures. This can be particularly helpful in controlling our warm season annual grasses such as crabgrass. In turn, this can reduce the dependence on preemergent herbicides for their control.
Mowing frequency is also increased with shorter heights of cut. For example, if the lawn is maintained at one inch, then only 1/2 inch of growth is needed before mowing is required assuming that no more than 1/3 of the top growth is removed at each mowing. On the other hand, if the height is maintained at 2.5 inches, then about 1 inch of growth could occur before mowing would be required. In general, the more growth needed before mowing is required, the longer the time interval between mowings.
Mowing too infrequently damages the lawn by removing too much of the plant at once. A substantial amount of leaf tissue is removed with infrequent mowing, while proper mowing removes a much smaller portion of leaf tissue. When mowed regularly, clippings filter down into the lawn, decompose rapidly, and recycle nutrients back into the lawn. Continually scalping the turf thinking that the frequency of mowing will be reduced is not only a myth but, can seriously weaken the grass plants inviting unwanted weed invasion and competition.
Increasing the mowing heights by an inch during mid-summer will improve the lawn’s ability to tolerate stress caused by heat and drying winds. It is also important to continue mowing throughout the fall until growth stops. The weather is usually warm enough for continued grass growth until early November. Lawns that are too tall at that time frequently mat down during winter, making them more susceptible to winter disease problems such as snow mold and invasion by mice or voles.
Change the direction of mowing each time to promote upright shoot growth. When the lawn is mowed in the same direction every time, the grass may lay down in the direction of mowing. By mowing at right angles every other time, this horizontal growth orientation will be minimized. In addition, the alternate mowing pattern will help prevent continuous scalping of high spots and help prevent soil compaction that may result from repeatedly following the same path.
Source:
“Mowing Practices,” University of Minnesota, Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series: http://www.sustland.umn.edu/maint/mowing.htm[accessed on May 6, 2008].
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Reel mowers have curved blades that produce a cutting action alongside a stationary steel plate. The blades form a spiral around the reel axis, and as they spin, the spiral of blades forces grass past the stationary plate. Reel mowers leave behind clean-cut grass, as if the grass had been cut with sharp scissors. Unlike the cutting action of scissors, however, it is not necessary for the blades of the spinning reel to contact the stationary plate. A clean cut is still possible if the gap between the blades and the plate of the rotary mower is less than the thickness of the grass.
 Reel Lawn Mower Diagram Drawing Rotary mowers, typically powered by gas or electric engines, cut with a single horizontal blade revolving at high speed. As it travels under a rotary blade, grass is torn and its edges are frayed. Consequently, grass blades are often left jagged as a result of rotary mowing. Grass with jagged edges will have a more difficult time healing from mowing and is more susceptible to disease and moisture loss.
 Rotary Lawn Mower Diagram Drawing
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The practice of mechanical mowing is less than 200 years old; before our modern era, grassy areas were maintained by grazing animals (in fact, sheep, in particular, are still used across the globe for this purpose). Turf was also maintained in earlier times with hand-held scythes for cutting and brooms for sweeping.
An English engineer named Edwin Budding invented the first mechanical mower in 1827. His prototype lawn mower was inspired by a carpet-trimming machine in a textile factory. The basic principle used in his mower is still found today in reel mowers: curved blades produce a cutting action alongside a stationary steel plate. The first machines, designed by Budding, were so heavy that they required three people to operate. Draft animals were also used to pull the first lawn mowers.
Manufacture of lawn mowers for general use began in the 1860s. By 1862, John Ferrabee (who bought the rights to manufacture lawn mowers from Edwin Budding) was making eight models in various roller sizes up to 36 inches. His company manufactured over five thousand machines until production ceased in 1863. Gasoline-powered mowers finally became available to a wide market in the 1920s when Colonel Edwin George popularized Moto-Mowers, built in a Detroit factory.
This information is summarized from Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management, by Nick Christians: Ann Arbor Press, Chelsea, Michigan: 1998, (chapter 8) and Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lawnmower.
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